It's
been quite a few days since my last blog posting, we've covered a lot of ground
lately and have kept busy doing so. I've also realized after reviewing the
first blog entry that my blog began as more of a Lonely Planet-esque travel
diary than one that was intended to discuss the psychology of power, addiction,
and Buddhism from my Thailand experiences, so I'm making a point to refocus
moving forward.
One of the activities that particularly stood out to me was a recent overnight trip to a small village high in the mountains of the Thai-Burmese border, Thoet Thai. This village is situated in the "Golden Triangle", an area where Thailand, Laos, and Burma meet along the Mekong River and infamous for drug activity. The Golden Triangle is currently the world's second-largest producer of raw opium (second only to Afghanistan) and quickly gaining ground as a leading methamphetamine producer. Our trip there, although short in length, included several points of interest that would be best discussed segregated:
Golden Triangle: Before arriving at Thoet Thai, we first stopped at THE Golden Triangle, where the three Southeast Asian countries are split by the Mekong River. Interestingly enough, the Thai side of the split has developed into a bustling tourist area, complete with craft shops, restaurants, and *sigh* restrooms that you have to pay to enter (although it's a mystery to me where the money goes as they don't provide toilet paper). I'm tempted to ask where the financing for the newfound commerce in the area originated from, but I'm confident the paper trail would be difficult to follow. Without delay we took a brief boat ride to see a small Mekong island village in Laos which boasted a small market. Apparently Laos didn't care to see passports as long as you paid 30 Baht (roughly $1). Although Thailand was literally 100 yards across the Mekong, it immediately became apparent that there was a wealth disparity between the two countries. Whereas we departed Thailand from sturdy metal docks, we were received to a partially submerged wooden dock. Instead of merchants leisurely strolling through their shops ready to assist you if you had any questions, we found ourselves aggressively marketed to with cries of "Sir Sir this shirt looks good on you" etc. It was tough to contain a laugh as a particular merchant attempted to sell me a purse that apparently was "So You". What highlighted the economic disparity most though, was that there were many small children who would run up to you and beg for money. I realized that after nearly two weeks in Thailand, this was literally the first time I had be solicited for money, by children and adults alike. Evidently, the theme of power had made lasting effects on the Laos P.D.R. The US bombings and proxy war of the Vietnam War era, internal civil war, and current crippling government autocracy were clearly executed to the disadvantage of the Laos people. Previous to visiting the Laos village, I'd noticed the Thai people seemed generally happy, happier than the average American even, despite possessing drastically less positional goods like washing machines and computers. I'd thought that the Thais derived their contentment elsewhere, but it seems that some element of positional goods, even in terms of public infrastructure, cannot be ignored as a variable, is it possible that although the Thai possess considerably less material wealth, they possess just enough to maintain happiness? Unlikely, I'm sure the average Amazonian tribesman is happier than many Americans. This begs the question of what variables, if not positional goods, led the Laos children to begging? I'm hoping there will be answers to come.
Khun Sa Museum: Similar to several African countries (Nigeria in particular), several Southeast Asian countries' borders have been shaped, if not, influenced by arbitrary Western direction. In this sense, British Burma's (Myanmar) borders were created in a way that grouped several ethnic minorities, distinct from the larger Burmese majority, into Burma, often splitting them across the Thai-Burmese border. In this sense, the ethnic Shan people were also split.
http://myanmartravel.org/009/map-of-shan-state.gif <--- for illustration
If one were to ask a Shan living in Myanmar what he was, he would likely reply that he is Shan, but holds a Myanmar citizenship, as our ethnic tour guide later corroborated when asked what he considered himself. Consecutively terrible military regimes post-colonialism in Myanmar led many of these ethnic minorities, including Shan, to carry out struggles for independence. The most famous of the Shan leaders, Khun Sa, was notorious for his "Shan State Army’s use of opium to fund their operations. We had the privilege one day of visiting Khun Sa's former northern Thailand guerilla HQ where a 1980’s battle between his army and the Thai government eventually forced Khun Sa out of Thailand. Fortunately, the caretaker of this abandoned military base lived next to it. Amazingly, the caretaker was none other than the man who was responsible for taking care of Khun Sa’s three horses who he would ride every morning before waking his troops. What struck me most was the amount that not only our tour guide, but the Shan people in the surrounding area still revere Khun Sa despite his narcotic notoriety. This begs the question that if someone uses other’s addictions in order to gain power, regardless of the cause, when does one cease being a freedom fighter and instead become a drug warlord? On one hand, a freedom fighter needs an army, an army needs money, and the best way to earn money is via commerce. When your base of operations lies in the mountains of northern Thailand, opium is, in reality, your army’s only option for producing this money. On the other hand, when money from your fundraising operations begins going towards purchasing a private villa, a personal helicopter, or a new Mercedes-Benz, are these being used in a manner conducive towards a greater social cause or for personal power? I believe that this delicate balance is, in effect, the struggle experienced by many rebel movements across the world, and one that invariably leads to many organizations loss of their original direction.
Mae Song Tea Plantation: As the Thai government has cracked down on opium production, drug trafficking in the area has since increasingly become dominated by methamphetamines, or as the Thai call it, Yaba (madness drug). In contrast to opium, methamphetamine requires no fields, and is actually more profitable. Only after the region has been shifted towards methamphetamine use has UN and Thai government crop substitution programs really taken root in the northern hills, and this tea plantation was evidence of its’ result. There’s not a huge amount to say in regards to this particular stop, but the beauty of the area was breathtaking and the tea was downright delicious.
One of the activities that particularly stood out to me was a recent overnight trip to a small village high in the mountains of the Thai-Burmese border, Thoet Thai. This village is situated in the "Golden Triangle", an area where Thailand, Laos, and Burma meet along the Mekong River and infamous for drug activity. The Golden Triangle is currently the world's second-largest producer of raw opium (second only to Afghanistan) and quickly gaining ground as a leading methamphetamine producer. Our trip there, although short in length, included several points of interest that would be best discussed segregated:
Golden Triangle: Before arriving at Thoet Thai, we first stopped at THE Golden Triangle, where the three Southeast Asian countries are split by the Mekong River. Interestingly enough, the Thai side of the split has developed into a bustling tourist area, complete with craft shops, restaurants, and *sigh* restrooms that you have to pay to enter (although it's a mystery to me where the money goes as they don't provide toilet paper). I'm tempted to ask where the financing for the newfound commerce in the area originated from, but I'm confident the paper trail would be difficult to follow. Without delay we took a brief boat ride to see a small Mekong island village in Laos which boasted a small market. Apparently Laos didn't care to see passports as long as you paid 30 Baht (roughly $1). Although Thailand was literally 100 yards across the Mekong, it immediately became apparent that there was a wealth disparity between the two countries. Whereas we departed Thailand from sturdy metal docks, we were received to a partially submerged wooden dock. Instead of merchants leisurely strolling through their shops ready to assist you if you had any questions, we found ourselves aggressively marketed to with cries of "Sir Sir this shirt looks good on you" etc. It was tough to contain a laugh as a particular merchant attempted to sell me a purse that apparently was "So You". What highlighted the economic disparity most though, was that there were many small children who would run up to you and beg for money. I realized that after nearly two weeks in Thailand, this was literally the first time I had be solicited for money, by children and adults alike. Evidently, the theme of power had made lasting effects on the Laos P.D.R. The US bombings and proxy war of the Vietnam War era, internal civil war, and current crippling government autocracy were clearly executed to the disadvantage of the Laos people. Previous to visiting the Laos village, I'd noticed the Thai people seemed generally happy, happier than the average American even, despite possessing drastically less positional goods like washing machines and computers. I'd thought that the Thais derived their contentment elsewhere, but it seems that some element of positional goods, even in terms of public infrastructure, cannot be ignored as a variable, is it possible that although the Thai possess considerably less material wealth, they possess just enough to maintain happiness? Unlikely, I'm sure the average Amazonian tribesman is happier than many Americans. This begs the question of what variables, if not positional goods, led the Laos children to begging? I'm hoping there will be answers to come.
Khun Sa Museum: Similar to several African countries (Nigeria in particular), several Southeast Asian countries' borders have been shaped, if not, influenced by arbitrary Western direction. In this sense, British Burma's (Myanmar) borders were created in a way that grouped several ethnic minorities, distinct from the larger Burmese majority, into Burma, often splitting them across the Thai-Burmese border. In this sense, the ethnic Shan people were also split.
http://myanmartravel.org/009/map-of-shan-state.gif <--- for illustration
If one were to ask a Shan living in Myanmar what he was, he would likely reply that he is Shan, but holds a Myanmar citizenship, as our ethnic tour guide later corroborated when asked what he considered himself. Consecutively terrible military regimes post-colonialism in Myanmar led many of these ethnic minorities, including Shan, to carry out struggles for independence. The most famous of the Shan leaders, Khun Sa, was notorious for his "Shan State Army’s use of opium to fund their operations. We had the privilege one day of visiting Khun Sa's former northern Thailand guerilla HQ where a 1980’s battle between his army and the Thai government eventually forced Khun Sa out of Thailand. Fortunately, the caretaker of this abandoned military base lived next to it. Amazingly, the caretaker was none other than the man who was responsible for taking care of Khun Sa’s three horses who he would ride every morning before waking his troops. What struck me most was the amount that not only our tour guide, but the Shan people in the surrounding area still revere Khun Sa despite his narcotic notoriety. This begs the question that if someone uses other’s addictions in order to gain power, regardless of the cause, when does one cease being a freedom fighter and instead become a drug warlord? On one hand, a freedom fighter needs an army, an army needs money, and the best way to earn money is via commerce. When your base of operations lies in the mountains of northern Thailand, opium is, in reality, your army’s only option for producing this money. On the other hand, when money from your fundraising operations begins going towards purchasing a private villa, a personal helicopter, or a new Mercedes-Benz, are these being used in a manner conducive towards a greater social cause or for personal power? I believe that this delicate balance is, in effect, the struggle experienced by many rebel movements across the world, and one that invariably leads to many organizations loss of their original direction.
Mae Song Tea Plantation: As the Thai government has cracked down on opium production, drug trafficking in the area has since increasingly become dominated by methamphetamines, or as the Thai call it, Yaba (madness drug). In contrast to opium, methamphetamine requires no fields, and is actually more profitable. Only after the region has been shifted towards methamphetamine use has UN and Thai government crop substitution programs really taken root in the northern hills, and this tea plantation was evidence of its’ result. There’s not a huge amount to say in regards to this particular stop, but the beauty of the area was breathtaking and the tea was downright delicious.
After our trip to the northern border region, we engaged
in several other fantastic activities during our free time including visiting a
tiger park as well as a cobra show (if you’ve seen Rambo IV they used the snake
charmers we saw), but these provide little if any relevance to the course.
However, two recent places that were relevant include visiting the Office of
Narcotics Control Board (essentially Thailand’s DEA) and today’s trip to a
local hospital that functions as a government-run treatment center.
ONCB: In Thai eyes, Thailand’s #1 problem is now methamphetamine use. Most drug use, drug arrests, and drug deaths have now shifted from opiates to meth. After a lecture from an ONCB representative, it was apparent that the government is engaged in a “War on Drugs” of which it has become part of the problem. Although there are thousands of police, military, and other law enforcement agencies which are engaged in northern Thailand to combat drug activity, there are statistically more drug seizures each year than the last. One reason the ONCB gave us is that police are sometimes implicit in the drug trade, willingly or not. Apparently Thai border police are limited to a one year term on the border, as inevitably the most honest and honorable police officers become paid to look the other way. If the policemen refuse to accept drug organization’s bribes, they immediately become targets themselves and can find a quick death. Another reason the ONCB gave is that the political instability in neighboring Burma, where most of the meth and opium is originating from, provides a fertile breeding ground for drug activity which spills across the border to local Thai demand. This particular aspect of the drug trade here reminded me of the US-Mexico problems with drug cartels. It’s indeed easy to point the finger at a neighbor who is unable to have to power to control these drug interests within its’ borders, but it’s even easier to say that these interests would be nonexistent if the high demand in your own country. It seems that the only way to effectively control the problem in both cases could only be through simultaneous control of foreign supply as well as internal demand. This is inherent in any economy, legal or otherwise. Supply will be created to meet demand, and it’s entirely feasible to accomplish the reverse, I doubt that consumers were clamoring to buy a “Pet Rock” before they began production. An unexpected benefit of our ONCB visit was the opportunity to see firsthand the drugs that were being fought over. Bags of seized methamphetamine tabs as well as crystal meth (Ice) were passed around the conference room for us to examine. The crystal meth actually had a pleasant vanilla scent, but we were told that the drug manufacturers actually added this to mask the overwhelmingly toxic smell the meth would otherwise had. I guess we’ll have to wait on the crystal meth aromatherapy candles.
Hospital/Treatment Center: After visiting the Buddhism-centered Wat Tham Krabok that was used for drug treatment, it was useful to catch a glimpse of government-run drug treatment center that appealed to more of a Western scientific view of drug treatment. As always, the Thais were more than accommodating, and we found ourselves touring the entire campus with a few nurses. Most importantly, these nurses were able to translate our questions/answers from a few patients we met who were currently undergoing drug treatment, voluntary or court-mandated. Here are a few learnings from a few patients:
School Education programs like D.A.R.E did not
work. Although I’m unfamiliar with the differences
between application of D.A.R.E in America and Thailand, there were several
patients who said they indeed received drug education in schoolONCB: In Thai eyes, Thailand’s #1 problem is now methamphetamine use. Most drug use, drug arrests, and drug deaths have now shifted from opiates to meth. After a lecture from an ONCB representative, it was apparent that the government is engaged in a “War on Drugs” of which it has become part of the problem. Although there are thousands of police, military, and other law enforcement agencies which are engaged in northern Thailand to combat drug activity, there are statistically more drug seizures each year than the last. One reason the ONCB gave us is that police are sometimes implicit in the drug trade, willingly or not. Apparently Thai border police are limited to a one year term on the border, as inevitably the most honest and honorable police officers become paid to look the other way. If the policemen refuse to accept drug organization’s bribes, they immediately become targets themselves and can find a quick death. Another reason the ONCB gave is that the political instability in neighboring Burma, where most of the meth and opium is originating from, provides a fertile breeding ground for drug activity which spills across the border to local Thai demand. This particular aspect of the drug trade here reminded me of the US-Mexico problems with drug cartels. It’s indeed easy to point the finger at a neighbor who is unable to have to power to control these drug interests within its’ borders, but it’s even easier to say that these interests would be nonexistent if the high demand in your own country. It seems that the only way to effectively control the problem in both cases could only be through simultaneous control of foreign supply as well as internal demand. This is inherent in any economy, legal or otherwise. Supply will be created to meet demand, and it’s entirely feasible to accomplish the reverse, I doubt that consumers were clamoring to buy a “Pet Rock” before they began production. An unexpected benefit of our ONCB visit was the opportunity to see firsthand the drugs that were being fought over. Bags of seized methamphetamine tabs as well as crystal meth (Ice) were passed around the conference room for us to examine. The crystal meth actually had a pleasant vanilla scent, but we were told that the drug manufacturers actually added this to mask the overwhelmingly toxic smell the meth would otherwise had. I guess we’ll have to wait on the crystal meth aromatherapy candles.
Hospital/Treatment Center: After visiting the Buddhism-centered Wat Tham Krabok that was used for drug treatment, it was useful to catch a glimpse of government-run drug treatment center that appealed to more of a Western scientific view of drug treatment. As always, the Thais were more than accommodating, and we found ourselves touring the entire campus with a few nurses. Most importantly, these nurses were able to translate our questions/answers from a few patients we met who were currently undergoing drug treatment, voluntary or court-mandated. Here are a few learnings from a few patients:
Social Influences were reason I started using drugs. Every single patient we talked with stated that the reason why they started, and continued, using drugs was that their peers were all doing so. In fact, 90% of the patients at this facility were there from meth use. One woman said that the only people in their community who didn’t use meth were the elderly.
Although I miss home, I think this place is good for me. Included in the four month drug rehabilitation program, the patients all received considerable amounts of occupational training aimed at helping them find employment post-rehab. Patients also received extensive amounts of drug education during their stay which they believed was also beneficial. Amazingly, several patients we talked to claimed they had no idea how bad meth was, thought it was normal, and thought that using meth daily to work more efficiently was nothing to raise an eyebrow about.
Tomorrow will be spent taking a break from studying power, addiction, and Buddhism to ride elephants all day at Ban Chaang elephant park which I am more than excited to do. I do so without guilt as these elephants are all taken extremely good care of, with the elephant park maintaining a large nature preserve as well as an elephant hospital. I’m looking forward to new experiences, and new learning as this trip regrettably enters its’ final week after this weekend.
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